Thursday, October 29, 2009

Surfin' USA

Last week I finally attempted at my dream of surfing! It was quite the experience. I went with Landon Smart who is also a beginner so right off the bat we knew it would be interesting. We headed down to Turtle Bay, jumped in the water and started paddling. After losing my balance and falling off the bored while not even moving, I started to get the hang of it. Paddling is a workout! I was getting thrashed and thrown all over the place, but luckily I was laughing through the entire process. After paddling for a good half hour, Landon told me to turn around and try to catch some waves. The next thing I know he is yelling at me to paddle as fast as I can and then stand up. Let me tell you, it is much easier said than done! At one point, I wasn't even trying to catch the wave and all of the sudden I was swept up and being carried in by the wave. I was cruising! I was on my stomach, holding on to the board for dear life, screaming and laughing my head off. I turn to find Landon laughing hysterically at me, telling me to stand up, which there was absolutely no way I was going to do that! We started paddling in after that and had to go up on this reef to get to the beach, I got a little cut up on my leg, making me feel like a true hard core surfer! I'll get there by the end of the year! Practice makes perfect!
Later that day, we went back out to the beach with Garrett, Egan and their surf boards. I was glad I had chosen to go earlier that day than with them. Also beginners, they went out having no clue what they were getting themselves into. As the girls took a nice nap in the sun, they boys were out trying to stay alive on their surf boards! There had been a really bad current pulling them out and all the locals were just staring at them! I definitely had more progress than they did!

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